HOW TO IMPROVE THE SOUND OF SPEAKERS?

Are your speakers not loud enough or is you not impressed with the quality? If you want to get the best sound from your speakers, you’re in the right place. We’ll outline the different methods you can use to Make Computer Speakers Louder. Also share some of the best tools you can use to enhance the performance of sound systems on your computer.

How To Make Computer Speakers Louder in windows

The methods we’re going to share are applicable to most windows versions including windows XP through Windows 10. Some of the methods however won’t work for old Windows versions like XP or Vista. If a method doesn’t work for you, you should use another method since we’ll share different ways of doing it.

1: Change Audio Enhancement Settings

The default sound settings on Windows were meant to cover small areas and that’s why you find that the sound isn’t that great. Here is how to change the enhancement settings for more loudness:

Locate the volume icon which is in the taskbar at the bottom right of your Windows screen.

You can see “Playback Devices” from the options.

Under the “Playback” Tab, you should click on “Speakers” and then click on “properties”.

The “Speakers Properties” window will now open, you should click on the “Enhancement” tab.

Then you tick on the option “Loudness Equalization”.

You now click OK to exit the Window.

By checking the “loudness Equalization” option, you’ve to boost all the sound systems on your computer. A lot of the sound cards that come with most Windows versions support this option and if it happens that your PC doesn’t support this feature

2:Use sound boosting applications

There are a lot of applications out there that will help improve the quality of your system sounds with a few clicks and the good thing is that you’ll find many free options, but the paid ones will be better. Even the free ones require upgrading to paid plans before using premium features. The free options however aren’t bad either and you can improve the sound of your computer. Let’s take a look at some of them that are worth trying:

DFX Audio Enhancer – This is an easy plugin that allows users to improve sound quality on their computer, it’s easy to use and has great features. With DFX Audio Enhancer you’re able to improve the sound of Audio and Video files, games, and Internet audio like YouTube or any other streaming site you’re using. There is a limited edition which is free and also the paid version that has better features.

Bongiovi DPS – This is a paid tool that is good when it comes to increasing sound quality, you can however test the tool using their trial version. The tool is available on Win7, 8, and newer windows versions.

SoundPimp – This tool also comes with high definition stereo to optimize your PC sound, it’s available on all the major operating systems we have including Windows, Mac, and Linux.

Using VLC Media Player

VLC Media Player is the most used media player and it comes for free, this free tool can match even the paid tools out there and chances are, you’re using it to play media files. That’s why there is a need to address how to increase sound volume and quality with VLC Media Player.

Even if you’re not currently using VLC player you should consider downloading it because it allows you to increase volume than any other media player out there.

The easiest way to improve the sound on VLC Player is to use the volume control it comes with which can be seen bottom right, you can increase the volume to 125%. This increase will improve the sound of speakers significantly.

 

3: Change volume controls

With all Windows versions you have the option to adjust the volume controls and it’s one of the easiest ways you can make your computer louder. Here is how to do that:

Right-click on the speaker icon on the taskbar, at the bottom right.

Click on “Open Volume Mixer”, it should be the first option in the context menu.

On the screen that shows up, you can see your sound devices and applications with sliders so that you can adjust them. You can move the sliders up to your satisfaction.

Play your media files while you’re adjusting the slides, once you’re ok with the sound, you just close the window.

5:Check The Default Playback Device

It’s possible that you’ve added a different Playback device other than the one that comes with Windows, you want to make sure it’s the one set as the default Playback device. You can check the default Playback device with these steps:

Right-click on the Speaker Icon which is on your System tray.

Click sound from the options.

Then you click the “Playback” tab or “Playback devices”, depending on your system version.

You can now see the list of your playback devices on the screen.

Locate the device you want to use and click on it, once you click on it, then click the button “Set default” or “Set as default device”.

6: Update audio drivers

If you want the best sound on your speakers, you need the latest audio drivers installed on your computer. The audio driver will get corrupt over time if not updated, and will not send an optimized sound.

Go to Device Manager and locate your Audio Driver, just type Device Manager in windows search and you can see it. Right-click on the Audio Driver and Click on update, windows will search for updates and install them if available. You can also visit the manufacturer website to download the latest driver and then install manually on your PC, you should, however, make sure to remove the old version, or else you can encounter errors during updates.

 

7:Use Windows Audio Troubleshooter

Windows 10 comes with Audio Troubleshooter: you need to use this tool when your sound is very low or when the speakers are not emitting sound properly. The Troubleshooter will find Audio problems and fix them automatically. Here is how to do that:

Type “Troubleshooter” in Windows search and the Troubleshooter Manager will show up, click to launch the tool.

Click on “Troubleshoot” to continue.

You now click on “Playing Audio” Troubleshooter.

Then you click on “Run the Troubleshooter”.

It will now scan for audio problems on your device and if found will be fixed automatically.

Clean your speakers

When dust accumulates, your speakers cannot produce sound properly, these dust particles can start playing up and cause random noise in your speakers. If you’re experiencing low sound or suspicious noise, you should open your speaker, or preferably you should take to a technician so that they can blow the dust appropriately.

 

Update Windows

When windows don’t have the essential updates, sound may be reduced, you need to update Windows after installing driver updates because most manufacturers design their audio devices in the sense that they’re compatible with the latest Windows update release. In order to check for updates, you should head over to “Settings” by pressing Windows + I keys. From the Settings App, you should click on “Update & Security”, you can now see the option “Check for updates”

 

Restart Sound Controller

If the problem isn’t fixed by now, you should restart the sound controller since they’re responsible for sound output on your computer. Here is how to do that:

Open Device Manager by pressing Windows + X keys, from the list, you then choose “Device Manager”.

Go to Sound, Viedo, and Game controllers, click to expand.

Find the sound controller you’re using and right-click on it.

You can see the option “Disable Device” from the menu.

Wait for some minutes and then right the sound controller again to select “Enable”.

Restart your and see if your sound is fixed.

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HOW TO CHOOSE A SPEAKER CABLE?

The argument about the quality of speaker cable or speaker wire has been discussed by audiophiles for many years and the topic is set to continue for many years to come.

Some speaker wires can be hugely expensive and some see this investment as worthwhile, whereas others see the cost as over the top and they would rather spend it buying a better amplifier or another item of equipment.

Speaker Cable basics

The loudspeaker cable is the wire or cable used to connect the amplifier to the loudspeaker system.

Like all cables, it has three main properties: capacitance, inductance, and resistance. As a result of the environment in which the speaker wire operates it is the resistance that is the most important. This is brought about by the relatively low frequencies used and the system impedance. Most speaker systems have an impedance of anywhere between around three or four ohms up to around 15 ohms. Today most loudspeaker systems have an impedance between four and eight ohms.

As the resistance rises it starts to affect the system's performance. Obviously, there can be a reduction in the drive current to the loudspeaker as the voltage across the cable increases. The other issue is that the back EMF created by the loudspeaker needs to have a low-impedance source against which to work. As the source impedance rises, so the back EMF is absorbed less. This affects the performance of the loudspeaker, particularly in the bass region where the bass may not be as pronounced and it may sound less natural.

It is this change in the tonal quality of the loudspeaker that audiophiles tend to worry about.

Typically the effects of the speaker cable start to become noticeable when the resistance of the cable reaches about 5% of the speaker impedance. Some may even say it needs to be less.

Speaker Cable make-up

The resistance of the speaker cable can be altered by three main elements:

Length:   The resistance of the loudspeaker wire is proportional to its length. There are two guiding principles:

Keep lengths as short as possible:   As the resistance is proportional to the length, it is obviously best to keep the lengths as short as possible. In this way, the resistance is minimized. However, the separation of the two speakers to provide the right stereo effect must be maintained.

Keep lengths equal:   The other guiding principle is to keep the speaker wire to both speakers the same in this way, they will both see the same resistance and the system will be better balanced.

Cross-sectional area:   The cross-sectional area or gauge of the speaker wire also has a major effect. The smaller the wire cross-section, the higher the resistance will be.

Conductor material:   Copper is normally the conductor material of choice. It has a very good level of conductivity, it can be bent easily and the cost is quite acceptable.

Speaker wire conductor materials

There is a choice of a number of metals for use within the conductor of the speaker wire.

Copper:   Copper is the most commonly used material for speaker wire. Its cost is reasonable and it has a good level of conductivity, i.e. it provides a low level of resistance in the wire. However, copper does oxidize - the surface can become coated with a thin layer of copper oxide; this creates a high resistance barrier between the cable and the speaker or amplifier where the connection takes place. Normally using screw pillars etc break through the layer, but over time it can cause a higher than the required level of resistance.

Silver:   Silver offers slightly lower resistance than copper, but it oxidizes. It is also considerably more expensive than copper. This means that a thicker copper wire will actually still be cheaper to buy.

Gold:   Gold has the lowest resistance and also it does not oxidize. However it is phenomenally expensive and as a result, it is not used for the wire itself. When it can be viably used is where the connections are made. Here a thin layer of plated gold can make a difference as it enables good contact to be made.

In general, the higher the level of purity of the wire, the greater the cost. Oxygen-free copper wire can be very costly. Whether this actually brings any audible benefit is up to the individual to decide.

Bi-wire & single wire speaker cable

Apart from the material and insulation used in the speaker wire, there is also an option to use either what is termed bi-wire cable.

Bi-wire speaker cable is used when the speaker and amplifier have two sets of connections, one for bass and one for the other frequencies. Normally there is a cross-over unit in the speaker, but it can also be placed within the amplifier, and in this way, the bass and higher frequencies can have separate amplifiers, more tailored to their individual requirements. It is said that this gives a more open sound stage and increases levels of detail. Others say that single-wire speaker cabling systems offer a more musically coherent sound. This is another discussion that audio enthusiasts can debate for many years to come.

If the speakers have only one connection then this makes the decision straightforward. If the amplifier and speakers have a bi-wire system, then bi-wire speaker cabling, consisting of four parallel conductors can be installed

Speaker cable cost / benefit

There are very many levels of speaker cable that can be used. Some cables can be exorbitantly expensive. Some manufacturers claim many improved properties and this can add significantly to the cost. Whether these benefits actually result in any audible improvement is debatable.

The most important element is the actual gauge of the wire. Often 4mm wire is thought to be the maximum anyone might want. 1.6mm or 2 mm is often thought to be more adequate for the relatively short runs found in most home systems.

4mm wire is very thick. As an indication, it has been reported that the Abbey Road studios in London (where the Beatles and many other top artists have recorded their music) have a very superb playback system and this uses 4mm oxygen-free cable. Their cable runs will be quite long as they will need to go around the studio.

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How to connect a subwoofer

How to connect a subwoofer

Description

This article explains how to connect a subwoofer to a receiver or amplifier by using LFE cables, RCA cables, or speaker wire connections.

Connect Using the LFE Subwoofer Output

The preferred method of connecting a subwoofer is through the subwoofer output (labeled SUB OUT or SUBWOOFER) of a receiver using an LFE (Low-Frequency Effects) cable. Almost all home theater receivers and processors and some stereo receivers have this type of subwoofer output.

Surround sound audio (also known as 5.1 channel audio) such as media found on DVDs or cable television, has a dedicated channel output with bass-only content that is best reproduced by a subwoofer. Setting this up requires connecting the LFE or subwoofer output jack on the receiver/amplifier to the LINE IN or LFE IN jack on the subwoofer. It's usually just one cable with single RCA connectors on both ends.

Connect Using Stereo RCA or Speaker Level Outputs

Sometimes a receiver or amplifier does not have the LFE subwoofer output, and sometimes the subwoofer doesn't have the LFE input. Instead, the subwoofer might have right and left (R and L) stereo RCA connectors or spring clips like you see on the back of standard speakers.

If the subwoofer's LINE IN uses RCA cables and the subwoofer out on the receiver/amplifier also uses RCA, plug it in using an RCA cable. If the cable is split on one end (a y-cable for both right and left channels), plug it in the R and L ports on the subwoofer. If the receiver/amplifier also has left and right RCA plugs for subwoofer output, be sure to also plug in both to the receiver.

If the subwoofer features spring clips for speaker wire, use the receiver's speaker output to hook it all up. This process is the same as connecting a basic stereo speaker using speaker wire. Be sure to mind the channels. If the subwoofer has two sets of spring clips (for speaker in and speaker out), it means that other speakers connect to the subwoofer, which then connects to the receiver to pass along the audio signal. If the subwoofer has​ only one set of spring clips, the subwoofer must share the same receiver connections as the speakers. The best way to accomplish this is by using banana clips that can plug into the backs of each other rather than overlapping bare wire.

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subwoofer

How to connect subwoofer to TV

How to connect subwoofer to TV

Description

Though subwoofers were initially developed in the 1960s, they have gained prominence with audiophiles and artists alike. In the 1970s, with the development of Sensurround used in movies, the immersion of an audio and video experience was realized. Many surround sound systems stated including subwoofer technology as part of the package, and today your setup is not complete unless it has one.

There are many reasons why you would want a subwoofer as part of your audio repertoire. First off, it will help you reveal sounds that your speakers cannot reproduce. Most speakers do not produce sounds beneath 50Hz, meaning you are losing out on the full depth of bass tones. With a subwoofer, this problem is solved because you can reach well below 20Hz. You do not want to miss out on sounds that can completely alter the experience of an audio track in a movie or even the music you listen to.

Another great feature of subwoofers is that in most systems, you can increase the volume without creating distortion. When combined with the pitch-perfect bass that a subwoofer can deliver, you will get to hear the sound exactly as the producers and musicians intended. You also gain the ability to add speed and control over low-end transients. That means you can present bass with more realism and punch while rendering each bass line individually and precisely. When included as part of a full speaker system, the subwoofer acts as the extension that completes the audio range.

Subwoofers drastically enhance the audio experience of your surround sound system. They are loudspeakers that specialize in handling the lower frequencies and bass. Subwoofers can reproduce low-frequency effects (LFE), which makes up the .1 in a 7.1 or 9.1 audio system. It is essentially a complete amplifier dedicated to low-pitched sound. A subwoofer will usually consist of one or more woofers that are mounted in an amplifier enclosure. The enclosure itself is generally made of wood so it can handle the air pressure while resisting deformation.

Subwoofers come in two different types, active and passive. An active subwoofer requires a dedicated power source, whereas a passive one does not. The passive version will use the power coming from the amplifier instead of a dedicated power outlet. If you want a truly immersive audio system, a subwoofer will play a vital role. Most home theater systems do not have the capacity to reproduce the entirety of the range of frequencies sent to them by the source files. If you do not have a subwoofer, you are going to miss out on those low frequencies, as well as the ability to achieve a full three-dimensional sound experience. For those of you that really want to feel that bass reverberates within you, a subwoofer is an essential piece of the puzzle.

So now that you know you need one, how exactly do you hook up your subwoofer to your television?

Method 1: Speakers In-between

There are a few ways to hook up a subwoofer to your television. For the first option, you need to make sure you have a powered subwoofer. This means that it cannot receive power through some USB or 3.5mm interface connection. The subwoofer will need to have its own electrical cord going to some outlet.

On top of that, you will need a set of external speakers, as well. The reason you need external speakers is that connecting your subwoofer into your audio jack will cut off the TV’s audio and send it all to the subwoofer. So, in this case, you would connect the speaker system to your television and then connect the subwoofer to your speaker system directly.

Method 2: Port Converter

If your TV does not have a headphone jack, you can use the converter method. For this, you will need a port converter that will transform one signal into another. For example, you can convert the digital coax output so you can connect to your television. You would connect the digital coax cable into the converter port and plug an HDMI cable into the HDMI input on the converters opposite end. You would now be able to connect the HDMI cable into the HDMI input on your subwoofer, and the entire connection would be complete. Pretty straight forward.

Method 3: A/V receiver

Another approach would be utilizing an audio-video receiver. It needs to be noted that you will have to have an A/V receiver that doubles as a transformer for signal input and also has the right connection ports for every device in your audio system. If you happen to meet that criteria, you can make a direct connection from your audio video receiver input port, into the television audio output. Once that is done, you will need to connect your speaker system to the A/V receiver. Next, you will have to locate the dedicated subwoofer connection port on the receiver (usually built-in on most audio video receiver) and connect your subwoofer to that port via HDMI cable. Once all that is complete, all that is left is to power it up and test the system.

Old Tech

If your television is a bit older and you do not have HDMI ports or an audio jack, you might need to replace it. Though if you happen to live near an electronics shop that has highly skilled technicians, you might be able to take it down to get the television modified in order to add the headphone hack, though this option comes with some obvious additional risks. With an older television, it might actually be less expensive to replace your TV than to have it modified, so definitely shop around before committing to any one option. Sure, your TV might have cost thousands of dollars when you first bought it all those years ago, but now it is relatively easy to find a 65-inch smart TV at an incredibly affordable rate. This is especially the case if you shop for one that is one generation older than the latest tech available. Either way, to get back to the point, once you have an audio output jack and your speaker system connected, you can connect your subwoofer to the speakers.

Final Thoughts

A subwoofer is a loudspeaker designed to reproduce low-pitched audio frequencies that you may know as bass or sub-bass. These frequencies cannot be generated by traditional speaker systems, so without a subwoofer, you lose out on a significant portion of the artist’s intended sound. Of course, a subwoofer is never used alone and needs to be connected to a quality speaker system to utilize its full potential truly. From amplification to equalization and phase control, subwoofers create an impactful additive to the music and sound effects used in television and movies.

Almost every theater you visit will have their ‘cinema sound’ Dolby digital setup that will include a set of powerful subwoofers. In order to deliver that cinema experience in your own home, a subwoofer is simply one part you cannot skip out on. There are more than three ways to hook one up to your television, but some others require splicing cabling or utilizing exposed wires and contact clamps.

Do you know of any other ways to hook up your subwoofer? If so, comment below and let us know what we missed!

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Guide

How to connect a bluetooth speaker to a pc

How to connect a bluetooth speaker to a pc

 Description 

This article provides instructions for connecting a Bluetooth speaker to your computer so you can listen to your PC audio from anywhere within range of the speaker.

How Do I Get My Computer to Play Through a Bluetooth Speaker?

If you want to use a Bluetooth speaker through your computer, it might not be immediately apparent exactly how you can connect the two devices. But once you see how to do it, you'll find how easy it is to set up whenever you want to use your Bluetooth speaker.

Before starting, make sure your Bluetooth device is turned on, not connected to any other device, and is in range of your PC. Then follow these steps to connect the two.

1 : On your PC, go to Settings.

Selecting Settings within Windows 10 Start Menu.

2: Click Devices to access settings for Bluetooth and other devices.

The Windows 10 Settings App Home Screen with Devices highlighted

3: Click on the plus icon next to Add Bluetooth or other device. Then select Bluetooth.

4: Add Bluetooth or other devices in Windows Settings

5:Wait for your Bluetooth device to show up, and once it does, select it. Wait for your PC to pair with your Bluetooth device. Depending on your device, you should get a notification when they have paired.

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Guide

How to clean airpods case

How to clean airpods case

Description

You need a microfiber cloth and a cotton swab. If you don't have a microfiber cloth, an ordinary soft cloth will do. If you have a particularly dirty case, you can also use some isopropyl alcohol, but follow the directions below carefully.

Here is the best way to clean your AirPods charging case or AirPods Pro case when it's dirty.

 1:        First clean the interior. Open the case and remove the AirPods or AirPods Pro. 

 2:        Get a cotton swab. If it's especially fluffy, gently remove a little of the fluff from the end of the swab, leaving behind just the tightly packed tip

. 

3:         Use the swab to remove dirt, grime, and ear wax on the interior of the case, cleaning the inside upper lid, groove around the lower half of the case, and clean carveclean out for the earbuds themselves. 

4:      Be careful when cleaning the stem well. It's rare for dirt to get down into that part of the case, but if it does, extend the swab into the well past the debris and then push the swab against the well as you pull the swab up, "sweeping" the debris out with the tip of the swab. It's important not to accidentally push deeper into the well or to touch the charging contacts at the bottom.  

5 :      If necessary, you can dampen the swab with isopropyl alcohol to clean the upper portions of the case but never use a dampened swab in the stem well. 

6 :      After the interior is clean, close the lid and clean the exterior. Use a microfiber cloth to thoroughly wipe the outside of the case. If needed, dampen the cloth with a small amount of isopropyl alcohol to encourage the dirt to come loose. 

7 :      If the case's charging port is dirty or clogged, you can clean it using the same techniques 

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how to

How to Optimize Your Center Channel Speaker.

How to Optimize Your Center Channel Speaker.

Description

Getting the Center Channel Up off the Ground

No matter how good your center channel speaker is, if it's not firing directly into the listening area, or if its direct path is being obstructed by furniture or by peoples heads, the sound will be compromised.

Take for example the recent $65k+ Status Acoustics 8T & 8C Loudspeaker System we tested and installed into the Audioholics Showcase Home Theater Room.

I initially plopped down the Status 8C center channel on my 20" Plateau stands while I focused on testing and reviewing the 8T tower speakers (as shown in the picture below).  It sounded quite good positioned like this, but more so in the front row than the back row.  My theater room as two rows of seating with the second row placed on top of a riser platform.

From the second row of seating, the direct path of sound from the drivers was being partly blocked by the theater chairs from the front row.  This made the dialogue less intelligible.  I needed to raise the center channel up just a few inches but not so high that it would obstruct the image on the screen.  

My quick and dirty solution was two-fold:

Raise the stands by attaching 2" feet borrowed from the RBH Sound MS10.1 subwoofer.

Tilt the center channel up 5-10 degrees by placing foam on the front of the stands, courtesy of Auralex.

You can achieve a tilt in your center channel speaker one of two ways, either tilt the stands up, or place something on the top of the stands to tilt up the speaker while leaving the stands level.

Tilt the stands-up method

If you can get custom feet built for your stands to prop them higher, its a good endeavor to pursue over just dumping a good speaker stand that may be only a few inches too short.  It would also be a good idea to perhaps make the front feet of the stands a bit longer than the back feet so that the speaker will have a slight tilt upward.  You can then affix rubber sticky pads to the back of the stands to secure the speaker and prevent it from sliding off the stands.  If you have this option, than you can skip the option below with the foam inserts.

Tilt under the speaker with foam inserts method

If you inserted equal length feet to raise the level of the stands but now need a tilt, you can achieve this by putting foam inserts on the top of the stands towards the front.  I had some extra studiofoam left over from when I had my room treated by Auralex and cut a few pieces to place on top of the Plateau stands.  You could just as easily use egg carton foam found at Home Depot or similar type of products.  Using black electrical tape, I taped them down to the stands so that they would stay still when placing the 130lbs Status Acoustics 8C center channel on top of them.  This also allows them to compress more evenly with the weight of the center channel.  I also recommend placing adhesive felt pads towards the back of the speaker stands so that the back of the speaker is dampened from the direct contact with the hard metal surface.   With the center channel carefully placed on top of the stands, it resulted in about a 7-10 degree tilt upward after the foam compressed.

If you want a less DIY solution then Auralex’s MoPAD Monitor Isolation Pads would be a great alternative.  They can give your speakers a slight tilt and provide isolation at the same time.  I've used them with excellent success to decouple speakers from an in-wall cabinet while also tilting them down towards the listening area as you can read in my review.

As you can see, I was able to raise the speaker up to just a couple of inches below the frame of the screen.  It also has enough tilt now so that when sitting in the back row, the drivers aren't being blocked by the front row of seating.  You can check this by placing a laser pointer on top of your center channel speaker while aiming it toward your theater chairs.  With the alterations I made, the laser pointer fires straight towards the top of the center chair of my second row at the tweeter level.  Success!

Audioholics Showcase Theater Chairs - (see the laser line on the center back seat)

Additional Tweak Suggestions

Here are some additional tweaks to further improve performance of your center cthe hannel.

Fill your Stands with Sand

Although the hefty Status 8C center channel cabinet is completely inert and free of cabinet resonance, the hollow Plateau stands are not.  But luckily, I was able to completely fill the columns of the stands with sand to solidify them.  You must use dry, very fine sand which you can readily find at a pet store.  It took two 20lbs bags of sand to fill both stands.  But, once filled, the resonance issue was completely eliminated. This is a well-worth tweak for anyone using speaker stands for any of your speakers.  Not only does it eliminate resonance but it also makes the stands far sturdier.

Absorb the floor reflections

Since the center channel is typically closer to the floor than the front speakers, it's perhaps even more critical to absorb floor reflections.  If your flooring is carpeted then you likely don't need to take this measure.  But in my case, we have hardwood flooring in our theater room.  We do have a large throw rug that absorbs the first reflections for the main Status 8T towers, but the center channel definitely benefits from some additional floor absorption.  I tested this by throwing down a piece of 1" acoustical foam as you can see in the picture above.  The end result wasn't dramatic but every little bit helps and it's certainly worth a try. 

Along the same vein, if your center speaker is sitting on a TV stand or shelf, pull it to the front of the stand/shelf to eliminate the unwanted reflections caused by the close proximity of the surface it resides on. Again, you may not notice a huge difference (or you may), but each of these tweaks makes a little difference leading to a large difference cumulatively.

Bass Management, Level Match & Time Alignment

Once everything is set in place, it's imperative to properly configure and calibrate all of your speakers.  Most center channel speakers should be set to "small" and crossed over at 80Hz so that the dedicated subwoofer handles bass duties.

Using an analog SPL meter set for C-wt, slow response, use the internal test tones of your A/V receiver/processor to level match your speakers.  I typically run my center channel about 1dB hot from the front row. That way, the back row isn't drowned out by the surround speakers and you can still clearly hear the dialogue.  

Last but not least, be sure you properly set the distance of all of your speakers in the speaker setup menu of your processor. 

Wrap Up

It's a certainty that someone in our forums will likely make a comment on this little editorial article asking why I didn't just use a larger perforated screen and place three identical speakers vertically mounted behind the screen.  (OK, I've heard this a lot before, can't you tell?)  While that may be an ideal solution for some, it wasn't for this install for the following reasons:

Perforated screens are ALWAYS a compromise for critical two-channel performance not just for the slight losses in high frequencies, but the diffraction they cause if NOT perfectly flush mounted near the speakers.  The primary emphasis of the Audioholics Showcase system is audio before video.

Placing three nearly 6 foot Status 8T towers in a room is both unaffordable and impractical.

The screen would have to be massive to fully cover these speakers entirely and would cause severe vertigo for our patrons, especially when playing XBOX.

When you have such beautiful speakers as these, you want to show them off, not hide them behind a screen.

The end result of this tweak was a marked improvement of an already excellent sounding installation (most notably from the back row) and an enhancement aesthetically by having the center channel propped up higher towards the screen.  I highly recommend you take the time to properly place and set up all of your speakers, and give some extra attention to the center channel as it will repay you in dividends when trying to understand what Bane is saying while crushing Batman's back.

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Guide

How to bi wire and bi amp

How to bi wire and bi amp

Surely, many music lovers, when connecting to an amplifier of a speaker system (AC), have come across the fact that the speakers are equipped with not two, but four terminals, for the pairwise connection of which gold-plated jumpers are used. This design feature makes it possible to use, in addition to the usual, additional options for connecting acoustics - Bi-Amping and Bi-Wiring. This allows you to quite successfully deal with interference.

Normal connection method

Based on the use of a single amplifier. In this case, each of the acoustic heads receives its share of the signal. The separation of the latter occurs in a special filter inside the speaker system. As you know, the principle of operation of dynamic loudspeakers is based on the interaction of a magnetic field and a conductor placed in it, through which a current passes. And now let's remember the law of physics, which we were told about at school: every action gives rise to a reaction. In accordance with this law, during the operation of the AU, a countercurrent occurs, which has significant amplitude peaks. Once at the output of the amplifier, this signal causes interference.

If the signal changes smoothly, the countercurrent repeats it, but with some delay (the so-called phase shift). However, the playback of music tracks is often accompanied by a powerful increase in the front of the signal (for example, when a bass drum is struck, the sound of which is reproduced not only by one low-frequency speaker but also by mid- and even high-frequency ones). For obvious reasons, each of the speakers has its own individual response to the signal received from the amplifier. The consequence of this is a violation of the amplitude ratio, which can adversely affect the stability of the amplifying equipment.

You can solve the problem by using other methods of connecting speakers.

This method involves the use of two amplifiers for each of the channels. Two pairs of wires are also used for the connection. This option allows you to completely eliminate the interaction of low-frequency and high-frequency emitters and achieve high stability of the amplifying equipment.

However, we should not forget that neither one nor the other connection method will allow you to get rid of the occurrence of interference entirely. The reason is simple - in both cases, long connecting wires and a part of the separation filter remain between the speakers and the amplifying equipment, which does not turn off when the jumpers between the terminals are removed.

Speakers with one pair of input jacks are connected to the amplifier in an obvious way, respecting the polarity of the connection. What about speakers that have two pairs of input terminals?
First, let's figure out why this is done. If in the column the input signal is divided into frequency bands and fed to separate speakers for each of them (in the most general case, bass and treble), then a crossover filter is an obligatory element of such acoustics. Limiting ourselves to considering two-way acoustics, as the most popular today, we note that the crossover filter in it consists of two sections: low-frequency and high-frequency. Accordingly, the input signal from the amplifier must be fed simultaneously to both, and then, after the filter, “diverge” to the speakers. In speakers equipped with one pair of input connectors, this connection of the inputs of the two filter sections is made inside, in the crossover filter itself. But for speakers with two pairs of input terminals, they are combined from the outside,

Manufacturers of acoustics with two pairs of input terminals put a jumper between them so that the user can connect such speakers using ordinary cables. However, experienced music lovers remove these jumpers and use a two-cable (Bi-Wiring) connection of such acoustics.

When making a Bi-Wiring connection, these jumpers must be removed.

To connect speakers according to this scheme, you need special cables. They consist of two identical ones, the ends of which (“red” with “red”, “black” with “black”) are connected from the side of the amplifier. Thus, the signal to the high-frequency and low-frequency sections of the speaker is supplied through two separate wires, which, theoretically, should reduce the mutual influence between them, and improve the sound quality. From the point of view of physics, the benefit of such an operation is not entirely obvious, since, taking into account the resistance of the speaker cable in hundredths of an ohm, the same jumper is simply transferred to the amplifier, where the ends of the Bi-Wiring wires are connected anyway. Nevertheless, as practice shows, the use of the Bi-Wiring scheme in many cases really gives an increase in sound quality. So, if you have the necessary stock of speaker cable,

Some music lovers are experimenting with Bi-Wiring, using different cables (different cross-sections, or made of different materials) to connect the LF and HF sections. In our opinion, this should not be done, and both cables in the Bi-Wiring circuit should be exactly the same. The fact is that almost all musical instruments, as well as vocals, have a sound frequency range that captures the low and high frequencies, which means that signal transmission should occur in the same way. If this rule is not observed, the tonal balance of the sound may be disturbed.

AudioKiller's site

Bi-amping (English bi-amping - "double amplification") - the use of two amplifiers, each amplifying the signal for its own speaker in the column. There are two varieties of biamping, and they don't have any special names, so I'll give them my own names.

"Full" or "correct" bi-amping in the amplifier and speaker:

Bi-amping is "correct".
Each of the amplifiers amplifies only its signal range - HF or LF (ie, only part of the signal). The separation of the bands occurs in the active crossover (filter) in the preamplifier. Speakers are connected directly to the outputs of their amplifiers.

"Incomplete" or "incorrect" bi-amping in amplifiers:

"Wrong" bi-amping.

Each of the amplifiers amplifies the entire frequency range (i.e. the entire signal). This entire amplified signal is fed to the speaker, and in it the already built-in filter crossover passes only the necessary frequencies to the speakers. Unnecessary frequencies are “discarded”, it turns out that they were amplified in vain.

Since such booze has already gone, there is also such trouble called “biwiring”.

It makes sense to use two wires where one is perfect enough, it appears if the cable length exceeds 50 meters, and a large-section wire is inconvenient. Or a crappy cable is used that is not able to transmit the entire signal to the speaker. I am not a supporter of either one or the other. (Well, you can also brag to your neighbor - they say that’s how cool my equipment is. If the neighbor asks why there are two wires where one is enough ... You need to look for answers in advance in glossy audio magazines, and if the neighbor understands technology and these answers will not convince him - so he is a redneck from a deep province, who does not understand anything in audiophile)

So…

I am setting up an active crossover, which I am going to install in my modified receiver (see “Refining Pioneer receivers”) and get “real” bi-amping in its front channels. With all its advantages, bi-amping has only one drawback - it requires additional power amplifiers. I have them - a 7.1 channel receiver, and I use only 5.1 of them. So two channels are free and can be used.

I made an active crossover for bi-amping a long time ago. By itself, it works great, but I don’t like the frequency response of the speakers connected to it. There is a small chance that I chose the crossover frequency poorly, but most likely it is something wrong with the acoustic measurements themselves, or something else is not tuned. What we have:

From the output of the sound card, the signal is fed to the crossover, and from it to the input of the amplifier for high-quality computer acoustics on the TDA7293 chip. Speakers are connected to each of the channels of the amplifier. The right channel reproduces the frequencies of the midwoofer (below 3 kHz), and the left channel reproduces the frequencies of the tweeter (above 3 kHz).

In addition, in the low-frequency part of the crossover, a subsonic (infra-low-frequency filter) of the 1st order is provided, which attenuates signals below 40 ... 50 Hz. This is done in order not to overload the bass / midrange speakers of the speakers - the subwoofer still works below 80 Hz.

Benefits of Biamping

In addition to measuring the frequency response of the speakers using a Panasonic WM-60 microphone and a measuring microphone amplifier, I also listened to the speakers by ear. One of my speakers has a regular passive crossover inside (I use them now without any biamping), and the other speaker has its passive crossover outside, and is connected to the speakers via the Speakon connector. So I just disconnect this speaker from its filter and use a direct connection to the speakers for experimentation. The purpose of listening was to compare the uniformity of the frequency response of passive and active crossovers. And here everything turned out according to science:

1. An active crossover has a lower frequency response. Moreover, this is noticeable even by ear (not so strongly, but noticeable), despite the fact that I am not yet satisfied with the tuning results. Well, everything is clear here - there are no problems with filter matching with the load, there is no variable non-linear inductance of the speakers, there is no wire resistance. The frequency response of electronic filters is much more even - after all, their coordination with the load is ideal (for filters in speakers, their coordination with the speakers depends even on the volume level!).

2. The sound when bi-amping in the column is noticeably cleaner! Again, not striking (yes, I listened more to the frequency imbalance), but still better. From here it's better. Any amplifier always has two problems: a large signal amplitude, and its (signal) high frequency. With a large amplitude, the output voltage is close to its limit - the supply voltage. At the same time, the inflection of the amplitude characteristic is already close (see "clipping in the amplifier") and the nonlinearity is large. This means that the distortions are growing noticeably. At high frequencies, it's a different matter: usually, the frequency of the first pole of the amplifiers lies somewhere in the range of 10 ... 1000 Hz (for the TDA7294 it is approximately equal to 200 Hz), at higher frequencies the gain drops, which means the depth of the feedback decreases and the distortions again increase. The broadband amplifier that reproduces the entire range from 20 Hz to 20 kHz, it is hard - because he has to deal with these two troubles at the same time! Because along with low frequencies of large amplitude, the signal also contains high frequencies. And the amplitudes of all of them are summed up.

The amplifier is struggling to maintain high quality, but how can he cope with them alone! And in bi-amping, each amplifier gets only one opponent. One amplifier fights only with a large amplitude because with a cutoff frequency of 3 kHz and a filter of the 3rd order, it does not get high frequencies. And he copes with relatively low ones more easily. The other amplifier got only high frequencies, but the signal amplitude there is 10 times less. Therefore, the distortion of each of the amplifiers becomes smaller.

In addition, in a single broadband amplifier, numerous combination frequencies appear (due to intermodulation distortion), including between the highest and lowest signal frequencies. As a result, the spectrum of combinational distortions turns out to be almost continuous, like noise and very unpleasant to the ear. If the amplifiers are divided, then in each of the channels there is not only a smaller number of signal frequencies that create mutual combinations, but they are “only their own” - only low frequencies or only high frequencies. The highest frequencies with the lowest do not interact in any way, because they are separated by different amplifiers! Therefore, there are much fewer combinations of intermodulations (and their amplitude is smaller due to the increased linearity!) And the sound is cleaner.

3. In fact, there are several other factors that improve sound. For example, the fact that the amplifier has to work on a "lighter" load. If crossover filters are in a column, their resistance becomes more complex and reactive due to the coils and capacitors that make up the filter (and there are resonances in the filter!). And the amplifier is more difficult to work on such a load. "Clean" speakers are also not sugar, but still much better.

4. The output power is a little more - after all, we are now using two amplifiers for the column. Let me explain with my fingers. Let's say the maximum power of the amplifier is 10 watts. This means that with “monogramming” on the column, these same 10 watts are the maximum and we get (in fact, a little less due to losses in the passive crossover). There are two amplifiers in bi-amping, and the crossover frequency is 3 kHz. At this crossover frequency, bass/midrange components account for approximately 85% of the signal power (Program for calculating the power ratio of speakers connected through filters). With “monogramming”, the power of the amplifier was divided as follows: 8.5 watts for bass and 1.5 watts for tweeters. In bi-amping, the woofer gives all its 10 watts to the woofer. Now, these 10 watts are 85% of the total signal, and the other 15% of the signal = 2 watts is sent to the tweeter by another amplifier. In this way, the total power of the two amplifiers is now 12 watts! And this is with reduced distortion.

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